Showpiece Homes, Luxury Living… and Ronda
After two months savouring the sublime summer pleasures of the coast, now is the ideal time for a refreshing change of scenery and pace. From scintillating soirées by the sea to the fun of the fair… It’s the first week of September and that means Ronda is in the spotlight with its eagerly awaited Pedro Romero fair.
It is claimed to be the only fair in the world named after a bullfighter (Ronda-born Romero, who retired in 1799, was considered to be the first matador to present the bullfight as an “art form as well as a display of courage”) and, as to be expected, one of the highlights of the week-long festivities (which end on Sunday) is the famous Goyesque bullfight.
For those who are staunchly opposed to this contentious Spanish tradition, however, there are plenty of other activities and culinary delicacies to savour – in an exceptional setting. As Ernest Hemingway wrote, “That is where you should go if you ever go to Spain on a honeymoon or if you ever bolt with anyone. The entire town and as far as you can see in any direction is a romantic background.”
Orson Welles was also a great fan. He noted during his life that “a man is not from where he is born, but where he chooses to die”, and requested that his ashes be placed in the country estate of a close friend in Ronda.
On our journey up the mountain we pass by one of Europe’s finest residential developments – La Zagaleta – but more of that later. For those seeking a more leisurely travel option, or who break out in a cold sweat when contemplating the spectacular landscape that drops sharply away from the road to Ronda (even though it is eminently safe for driving – and a far cry from the narrow track motorists had to traverse three decades ago!), Renfe run a scenic train service to and from Ronda, although that means having to leave from Málaga city.
However you make it to Ronda, the trip is well worth it, either this weekend or at any other time of the year. For the Pedro Romero fair, which dates to the 18th century, the town becomes a vibrant hub of social and cultural festivities, with many locals (and adventurous visitors) gaily attired in traditional dress. The days and nights offer a full and rich schedule of music, dance, singing and flowing wine, including theatre performances, a flamenco festival, an international folklore festival and a carriages contest – both in the town centre overlooking the famous Tajo gorge and at peripheral venues.
As Sevilla poet Luis Cernuda wrote of this picture-postcard town… “walking though Ronda at dusk, the cypresses, the palaces, all the air not far from the courts of Cádiz; and the indescribable colour of the sky, not pearl grey, not silver; a suspicion of a light celestial blue that some white force of the light erased and compensated with its radiance”.
While still in the Costa del Sol hinterland, another town on the other side of the Ronda mountains closer to Málaga city is also well worth visiting in September. Next weekend, the “Embrujo Andalusi” (“Andaluz Enchantment”) festival will transform Carratraca into a magical world of dance, music, art, theatre and artisanal displays – and thousands of candles – paying homage to the town’s venerable past as a bridge between cultures. A similar event, “Festival de la Luna Mora” (“Festival of the Moorish Moon”), is also being held in Guaro this month (double-check for the exact dates before heading out into the country – as the schedule does seem to be something of a moving feast).
And finally to our featured property… There is no more exclusive address on the Costa del Sol than La Zagaleta – located in verdant and ultra-private mountain surroundings on the road from Marbella to Ronda – and this magnificent villa is one of the estate’s most emblematically luxurious properties. Extending over more than 1,000 square metres of built area on a 5,755 square metre plot, it comprises seven bedrooms, six bathrooms, expansive living areas, a cinema room, and a three-car garage.
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(Photo Ronda: IMAGEN © TURISMO ANDALUZ, S.A
.)